Fabric Selection and Sourcing for Contract Manufacturing

Fabric selection is one of the most impactful decisions in textile product development. The fabric defines your product's quality, feel, durability, and cost. Understanding how to select and source the right fabric for contract manufacturing is essential.

Key Fabric Properties to Evaluate

• Fiber Content: Cotton, polyester, wool, linen, silk, or blends
• Weight (GSM): Grams per square meter determines thickness and drape
• Weave/Knit Structure: Plain, twill, satin, jersey, interlock, etc.
• Shrinkage Rate: Pre-wash shrinkage must be within acceptable tolerances
• Color Fastness: Resistance to washing, rubbing, light, and sweat
• Pilling Resistance: Important for knitwear and fleece
• Tensile Strength: Load capacity before tearing

Fabric Sourcing Models

CMT (Cut-Make-Trim) - You Supply the Fabric

You purchase and send fabric to the manufacturer. Gives maximum control over fabric quality and source, but requires more capital and logistics management.

Full Package (FPP) - Manufacturer Sources Fabric

The manufacturer sources all materials. Easier for you, but requires trust in the manufacturer's sourcing capabilities and regular quality checks.

Sustainable Fabric Sourcing

Sustainability is increasingly important to consumers and retailers. Consider:

• GOTS-certified organic cotton
• Recycled polyester (rPET) from plastic bottles
• Tencel/Lyocell from sustainably managed forests (FSC certified)
• Deadstock and surplus fabric programs
• Bluesign certified fabrics (reduced environmental impact in dyeing)

Fabric Testing Requirements

• Request lab test reports (Oeko-Tex Standard 100 for safety)
• Test shrinkage before pattern making
• Evaluate color consistency across fabric rolls
• Conduct wear testing for garments in use

For more about textile manufacturing, see Textile Manufacturing Guide and Sustainability in Textile Manufacturing.

Before the next supplier discussion

Request the following evidence and record any gaps before approving a quote or production run.

• Fabric composition and care-label basis
• AQL or inspection plan
• Restricted-substance test scope
• Sample and size-set approval record

Next steps

1. Confirm material identity before sampling.
2. Tie inspection checkpoints to the buyer specification.
3. Keep test reports and care-label logic in the same supplier file.